{"id":2270,"date":"2023-04-04T11:36:48","date_gmt":"2023-04-04T11:36:48","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mpelembe.net\/?p=2270"},"modified":"2023-04-04T11:36:48","modified_gmt":"2023-04-04T11:36:48","slug":"the-pope-francis-puffer-coat-was-fake-heres-a-history-of-real-papal-fashion","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mpelembe.net\/index.php\/the-pope-francis-puffer-coat-was-fake-heres-a-history-of-real-papal-fashion\/","title":{"rendered":"The Pope Francis puffer coat was fake \u2013 here\u2019s a history of real papal\u00a0fashion"},"content":{"rendered":"

Carol Richardson<\/a>, The University of Edinburgh<\/a><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

Before news of his hospitalisation for a respiratory infection<\/a> this week, a fake image of Pope Francis wearing a Balenciaga-style<\/a> white puffer jacket was posted to Reddit<\/a> and Twitter<\/a>. The image \u2013 created through AI programme Midjourney<\/a> \u2013 had many viewers fooled into believing that the head of the Catholic church had dramatically updated his style.<\/p>\n

As an art historian and an ecclesiastical historian, the image has fascinated me, not least in thinking about the rich history of papal fashion.<\/p>\n

First of all, it caught my eye because it looks like shot silk (fabric made of silk woven from two or more colours producing an iridescent appearance). Intentionally or not, it\u2019s a nice nod to the fascia<\/em><\/a>, a sash worn by clerics over their cassocks.<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

This detail hints at the way papal dress and indeed the attire of many people in formal positions works. It not usually just about the shape and colour, but also the quality or materials used. <\/p>\n

Being the pope is a bit like dressing for a wedding every day: even as a guest you wouldn\u2019t turn up in your denims. You honour your hosts by wearing the best you possibly can.<\/p>\n

The palette of the Pope<\/h2>\n

In the 21st century, popes have increasingly worn only white, now generally identified as the papal colour. But red is also a pope hue of choice \u2013 for example, John Paul II (1920-2005) usually wore white, but he also wore red capes and cloaks<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Benedict XVI (1927-2022) brought back the camauro<\/em> \u2013 nicknamed the \u201cSanta hat\u201d<\/a> \u2013 which is a red silk and velvet cap trimmed with ermine reserved for the pope\u2019s use. The camauro<\/em> goes back to at least the 12th century when it was related more closely to philosophers and teachers and the hat they wore, known as a pileus<\/em>.<\/p>\n

\n \"Painting<\/a>
\n Pope Gregory the Great (c.\u2009540\u2013604), in a painting by Carlo Saraceni (c.\u20091610).<\/span>
\n National Gallery of Ancient Art, Rome<\/a><\/span>
\n <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Historically, portraits of senators, lawyers and academics often show them wearing red which is used to communicate a message of \u201cofficial\u201d. <\/p>\n

Cardinals, the most senior clerics in the Roman Catholic Church next to the pope, wear red precisely because it is a papal colour and their power (or more accurately, influence) derives entirely from the pope.<\/p>\n

Pope Paul II (1417-1471) tried to ensure quality over quantity when, amid shortages, he officially reserved<\/a> the very best red dye for himself and his cardinals.<\/p>\n

As a result of the fall of Constantinople to the Ottoman Turks in 1453, trade from the eastern Mediterranean was disrupted. This meant that the supply of red dye kermes \u2013 which derives from the galls produced by parasitic wasps on oak trees indigenous to the Mediterranean basin and eastern Continent \u2013 was severely curtailed.<\/p>\n

It was not until the middle of the 16th century that cochineal<\/a> \u2013 which comes from parasitic insects on prickly pear cactuses \u2013 became available in Europe because of Spanish and Portuguese expansion into South America. <\/p>\n

Whatever the dye, papal quality is also communicated by fabrics which hold unparalleled depths of hue: silk, not cotton or linen, alpaca not ordinary wool.<\/p>\n

\n \"Portrait<\/a>
\n Portrait of John Paul II wearing a red cape, by Guido Greganti (1983).<\/span>
\n Renata Sedmakova\/Shutterstock<\/a><\/span>
\n <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Historians know from 13th century sources<\/a> that popes have always worn white next to their skin (though from at least the 15th century their socks have been red<\/a>). <\/p>\n

White represents Christlike purity, innocence and charity, while red symbolises compassion and the pope\u2019s willingness to sacrifice himself for his people.<\/p>\n

In ancient Rome, red was the colour of imperial power whereas white was associated specifically with the city. So, the papal colours represent the pope\u2019s universal significance as head of the Catholic church as well as his local position as Bishop of Rome.<\/p>\n

Popes can also wear blue \u2013 Pope Nicholas V<\/a> (1997-1455) particularly liked this colour. John Paul II, on one of his famous hiking trips, wore his white cassock under a padded blue jacket<\/a>.<\/p>\n

For papal fashion purposes, blue can stand in for red. In penitential seasons (Advent<\/a> and Lent<\/a>) or during periods of mourning, bright colours are not appropriate. But dip your bright red silks in a final dye bath of indigo and you get peacock (pavonazzo<\/a><\/em>) which has the iridescence of the bird\u2019s feathers.<\/p>\n

Someone with the social conscience of Pope Francis I probably doesn\u2019t give two hoots about what he wears. But as a Jesuit \u2013 one of the most highly educated, intellectual and thoughtful of all the groups in the Roman Catholic Church \u2013 he would understand the values of continuity and devotion communicated by both what he wears and how he wears it.<\/p>\n

I would like to imagine, as he recovers from his respiratory infection, that he would be cheered up by high-tech mashups, such as this image of himself in a puffer coat \u2013 so long as they play within the rules of such a dignified man in such a venerable office.<\/p>\n

Carol Richardson<\/a>, Professor of Early Modern Art History, History of Art, The University of Edinburgh<\/a><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

This article is republished from The Conversation<\/a> under a Creative Commons license. Read the original article<\/a>.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Carol Richardson, The University of Edinburgh Before news of his hospitalisation for a respiratory infection this week, a fake image of Pope Francis wearingRead More…<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2271,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"googlesitekit_rrm_CAowu7GVCw:productID":"","_crdt_document":"","activitypub_content_warning":"","activitypub_content_visibility":"","activitypub_max_image_attachments":3,"activitypub_interaction_policy_quote":"anyone","activitypub_status":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[24],"tags":[5486,1664,5475,5477,5488,5490,5476,5471,5492,5473,1087,722,5485,5482,5481,5474,5491,5472,325,5487,5483,5480,5484,2981,726],"class_list":["post-2270","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fashion","tag-benedict","tag-blue","tag-camauro","tag-cardinal","tag-carlo-saraceni","tag-carol-richardson","tag-cassock","tag-catholic-church","tag-ceremonial-of-benedict-xvi","tag-christian-clothing","tag-clothing","tag-creative-commons","tag-guido-greganti","tag-john-paul","tag-john-paul-ii","tag-papal-regalia-and-insignia","tag-papal-shoes","tag-papal-vestments","tag-pope","tag-pope-francis","tag-pope-gregory","tag-pope-nicholas","tag-renata","tag-rome","tag-shutterstock"],"featured_image_src":"https:\/\/mpelembe.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/file-20230329-24-yl530w-1024x683.png","blog_images":{"medium":"https:\/\/mpelembe.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/file-20230329-24-yl530w-300x200.png","large":"https:\/\/mpelembe.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/file-20230329-24-yl530w-1024x683.png"},"ams_acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nThe Pope Francis puffer coat was fake \u2013 here\u2019s a history of real papal\u00a0fashion - 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